I’ve been dreaming about designing a boho poncho that would work for nearly every body type without complicated shaping. My goals were ambitious. I wanted something that would fit sizes XS through XL with ease, use a stunning floral granny square as the star of the show, and come together without a single increase or decrease row. The result is this Ocean Breeze Coastal Square Poncho, and I am absolutely thrilled with how it turned out.
The construction is beautifully simple once you understand it. Two flat panels made from joined granny squares, seamed at the shoulders and partially down the sides. That’s it. The sleeves form naturally from the dropped shoulders, creating that gorgeous bell shape you see in the photo.
Every square features a golden sunflower center surrounded by aqua teal petals and a navy border, all set against a crisp white lattice mesh. The color combination reminds me of tide pools and sunny coastal mornings. If you’ve been wanting to try join as you go assembly or tackle a wearable garment project, this poncho is the perfect place to start.
About This Crochet Pattern
This poncho hits at mid-hip on most adults and has a relaxed, oversized silhouette that flatters everyone. The construction uses 40 identical granny squares arranged into two rectangular panels. You’ll join 20 squares per panel in a 4 wide by 5 tall grid, then seam the panels together at the shoulders and sides.
Skill level: Intermediate. You should be comfortable with basic crochet stitches, working in rounds, and changing colors. The join as you go technique takes a little practice, but I’ll walk you through it step by step.
Time estimate: Plan for 40 to 60 hours total. If you batch your squares and get into a rhythm, you might finish closer to 35 hours.
Finished Measurements
Each blocked granny square measures 5 inches by 5 inches (12.5 cm by 12.5 cm).
Front panel before seaming: approximately 20 inches wide by 25 inches long (51 cm by 63.5 cm)
Back panel: same as front
Total garment width at chest: approximately 20 inches flat, 40 inches circumference (51 cm flat, 101.5 cm circumference)
Total length from shoulder to hem: approximately 25 inches (63.5 cm)
Sleeve opening wrist to wrist: approximately 40 inches (101.5 cm)
Head opening: approximately 10 inches wide by 5 inches tall (25.5 cm by 12.5 cm)
This pattern fits most adults from approximately US sizes XS to XL thanks to the generous ease built into the design.
Materials Needed
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (CYCA weight 4) in four colors
Hook: US size J-10 / 6.0 mm crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions:
Yarn Suggestions
Lion Brand Pound of Love works beautifully for this project. It’s 100% acrylic with excellent drape, and it’s machine washable. One skein of White, a partial skein of Golden Yellow, and about half a skein each of teal and navy will cover you.
Cascade 220 Superwash is my pick if you want that gorgeous wool stitch definition. It blocks like a dream. You’ll need 4 skeins White, 1 skein Golden Yellow, 2 skeins Teal, and 2 skeins Navy.
Any smooth worsted weight yarn that matches gauge will work. Avoid fuzzy or heavily textured yarns since they’ll hide your beautiful flower details.
Gauge
1 finished, blocked granny square = 5 inches by 5 inches (12.5 cm by 12.5 cm)
Alternatively: 14 double crochet (dc) and 8 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in standard double crochet fabric worked in rows with Color A.
Gauge matters here because it determines your final garment size. A larger hook produces larger squares and a larger poncho. A smaller hook produces smaller squares and a smaller poncho. Swatch and adjust as needed.
Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions
ch: chain. Wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook.
sl st: slip stitch. Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion.
sc: single crochet. Insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.
dc: double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops.
tr: treble crochet. Yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), then yarn over and pull through 2 loops three times.
sp: space
ch-sp: chain space. The gap created by a chain or chains in the previous row or round.
sk: skip
st/sts: stitch/stitches
rep: repeat
pm: place marker
RS: right side
WS: wrong side
JAYG: join as you go
beg: beginning
[ ]: work instructions within brackets the number of times indicated
( ): stitch count at end of row or round
Special Stitches
Sunflower Center Cluster
This creates the textured bumps in your flower center.
1. Yarn over hook twice (as for treble crochet)
2. Insert hook into the designated stitch or space
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook)
4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook)
5. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Do not complete the stitch yet.
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 two more times in the same stitch or space until 4 loops total remain on hook
7. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops
One Sunflower Center Cluster complete.
Petal Cluster
This forms the raised petals radiating from your flower center.
1. Yarn over hook once (as for double crochet)
2. Insert hook into designated stitch or space
3. Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook)
4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Leave 2 loops on hook.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times in the same stitch or space until 4 loops remain on hook
6. Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops
One Petal Cluster complete. Think of this as a dc3tog worked entirely in a single stitch rather than across three separate stitches.
Scallop Shell
Work 5 dc all into the same stitch or chain space. This group of 5 dc worked together creates the decorative shell edge on your borders.
Join As You Go (JAYG) Method
When joining the final round of a new square to an already finished square, replace each corner ch-2 space with the following:
1. Work ch 1
2. Insert hook into the corresponding ch-sp on the finished neighbor square
3. Sl st through that space
4. Ch 1
5. Continue the current round as written
This replaces a standard ch-2 corner with a ch-1, sl st, ch-1 join.
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
1. Each panel requires 20 granny squares (4 squares wide by 5 squares tall). The entire poncho requires 40 squares total.
2. All squares are worked in continuous rounds with a slip stitch join at the start of each new round. Do not turn.
3. Change colors by drawing the new color through the final two loops of the last stitch of the old color before pulling through. Fasten off old colors unless instructed to carry.
4. Weave in all ends as you complete each square. Trust me on this one. Trying to weave in 160+ ends at the assembly stage is no fun.
5. Block every square before assembly. Pin to measurements (5 inches by 5 inches) and spritz with water or wet block. Allow to dry completely.
6. The garment has no shaping rows. Fit is achieved entirely through square dimensions, panel layout, and seaming.
7. Read all instructions for a section before beginning that section.
Granny Square Instructions (Make 40)
The square is worked in 5 rounds. Rounds 1 and 2 use Color B (Golden Yellow). Round 3 uses Color C (Aqua Teal). Round 4 uses Color D (Navy Blue). Round 5 uses Color A (White). All rounds are worked on the right side.
Make a magic ring (adjustable loop) with Color B. If you prefer, ch 4 and sl st to form a ring instead.
Round 1 (Color B)
Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout).
Work 11 more dc into the ring.
Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join round.
(12 dc)
Round 2 (Color B)
Ch 1.
Work 1 Sunflower Center Cluster into the same stitch as the ch-1.
Ch 2.
[Work 1 Sunflower Center Cluster into the next st, ch 2] 11 times.
Sl st to top of first cluster to join.
Fasten off Color B.
(12 clusters, 12 ch-2 spaces)
Round 3 (Color C)
Join Color C with a standing sc (or sl st and ch 1) into any ch-2 space.
Work 1 more sc into the same ch-2 space.
Work 1 Petal Cluster into the same ch-2 space.
Work 2 more sc into the same ch-2 space.
You now have a 5-stitch petal group in this space: sc, sc, Petal Cluster, sc, sc.
Sl st into the next ch-2 space to move between petals.
[Work sc, sc, Petal Cluster, sc, sc all into the next ch-2 space. Sl st into the following ch-2 space.] 11 times.
Sl st to first sc of round to join.
Fasten off Color C.
(12 petals, each consisting of 2 sc, 1 Petal Cluster, 2 sc)
After Round 3, your square looks like a round flower with 12 petals radiating from the yellow center. The navy border in Round 4 will pull this into a square shape.
Round 4 (Color D)
This round is worked into the sl-st spaces between petals. There are 12 total. Designate 4 of these as corners (every 3rd sl-st space) and treat the remaining 8 as side positions (2 per side).
Preparation: Count the 12 sl-st spaces between petals. Place a stitch marker in every 3rd space: spaces 1, 4, 7, and 10 are corners.
Join Color D into corner space 1 with a standing dc.
Step A (Corner): Work 3 dc into corner space, ch 2, work 3 more dc into same corner space. Corner group complete.
Step B (Side bar 1 of 2): Sl st into the next sl-st space (space 2). Work 3 dc into this space.
Step C (Side bar 2 of 2): Sl st into the next sl-st space (space 3). Work 3 dc into this space.
Step D: Work into corner space 4: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc.
Repeat Steps B, C, D three more times, working corners at spaces 7 and 10 respectively, and the two side-bar groups in the spaces between corners.
After the 4th corner and its two side bars are complete, sl st to join to the first dc.
Fasten off Color D.
Stitch count check: 4 corners (6 dc each) + 8 side groups (3 dc each) = 24 corner dc + 24 side dc = 48 dc total, plus 4 ch-2 corner spaces.
(48 dc, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)
Round 5 (Color A)
This round creates the open lattice mesh that unifies the squares and forms the joining framework.
Join Color A with sl st into any ch-2 corner space.
Ch 3, dc 1 in same space, ch 1, dc 2 in same space. First corner worked.
[Ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc into the sl-st bar between the two 3-dc side groups on this side, ch 3, sk 3 dc, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into the ch-2 corner space.] 3 times.
Ch 3, sk 3 dc, sc into the sl-st bar on the final side, ch 3, sk 3 dc.
Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join.
Fasten off Color A.
(8 dc, 4 sc, 8 ch-3 arches, 4 ch-2 corner spaces)
The finished unblocked square should measure approximately 4.5 to 4.75 inches. After blocking it should reach exactly 5 inches.
Block all 40 squares before proceeding.
Checkpoint 1
At this point you have 40 blocked granny squares, each measuring 5 inches by 5 inches. Lay them out in two groups of 20, arranging 4 squares across by 5 squares tall for each panel. Verify your color placement is consistent. All squares should look identical. Take a moment to admire your work. You’ve earned it.
Panel Assembly (Make 2)
Each panel is assembled using the JAYG method or flat slip stitch seaming.
Layout Grid (each panel, 4 squares wide by 5 squares tall):
Flat Slip Stitch Seam Method
If you prefer slip stitch seaming over JAYG, hold two adjacent squares with right sides facing each other. Using Color A and a tapestry needle or crochet hook, sl st through both corresponding ch-3 arches and corner ch-2 spaces across the shared edge.
When joining 4 squares into a row, join Square 1 to Square 2 along their right edges, then join Square 2 to Square 3, then Square 3 to Square 4. Repeat for each row of 4.
Then join Row 1 to Row 2 along their shared top/bottom edges, joining all 4 squares across simultaneously and matching seams at intersections. Continue joining rows until all 5 rows form one panel.
The panel should measure 20 inches wide by 25 inches tall (51 cm by 63.5 cm).
Checkpoint 2
Hold the completed panel up. It should measure 20 inches wide by 25 inches tall. The seams should lie flat and the squares should be even. Repeat assembly for the second panel. When both panels are complete, move on to garment construction.
Garment Construction
Identifying Sections of Each Panel
Shoulder Seam
Place the two panels with right sides together. The two top edges (each 20 inches wide) face each other.
The top edge spans 4 squares (20 inches). Leave the center 2 squares (10 inches) open for the neck. Join only the left 1 square (5 inches) and the right 1 square (5 inches) on each side.
To join: Using Color A, sl st through the corresponding ch-3 arches and corner ch-2 spaces of the first (leftmost) square on the top edge of both panels, working across only that 1 square width. Fasten off. Repeat on the right shoulder (rightmost square). The center 2 squares remain open. This creates the neck opening.
Side Seams
The sides of the poncho run 25 inches tall (5 squares). You will seam only the lower portion of each side, leaving the upper portion open as the sleeve opening.
Seam the bottom 2 squares (10 inches) of each side together on both the left and right sides. Leave the top 3 squares (15 inches) on each side open as the sleeve openings.
To join a side seam: Hold front and back panels right sides together along one side edge. Using Color A, sl st through corresponding arches and corners of the bottom 2 squares only. Fasten off. Repeat on the other side.
The garment is now fully assembled. Turn right side out.
Checkpoint 3
Try on the poncho. The neck opening should sit comfortably around the head (approximately 10 inches wide and 5 inches deep when worn). The sleeve openings (15 inches per side) should allow your arms to move freely. The hem falls at approximately mid-hip. The body of the garment should sit smoothly around the torso.
Finishing Border
The scallop shell border is worked around the bottom hem edge, both sleeve cuff edges, and optionally around the neck opening. All borders are worked with Color A.
Bottom Hem Border
Before working the scallop border, work 1 preparatory round of sc to create an even base.
Preparatory Round (sc base):
Join Color A with sl st to the bottom right corner ch-2 space of the hem edge.
Ch 1.
Work 2 sc into the corner ch-2 space.
[Work 3 sc into the ch-3 arch, 1 sc into the sc, 3 sc into the ch-3 arch, 2 sc into the corner ch-2 space of the next square’s corner] across the bottom edge.
Sl st to join round.
(80 sc around hem preparatory round)
Scallop Shell Border Round:
Ch 1.
Sk 1 sc.
Work Scallop Shell (5 dc) into the next sc.
Sk 1 sc.
Sc into the next sc.
[Sk 1 sc, work Scallop Shell into the next sc, sk 1 sc, sc into the next sc.] repeat around.
(20 Scallop Shells, 20 sc)
Sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Sleeve Cuff Border
Each sleeve opening spans 3 squares on the front and 3 squares on the back, making a loop of 6 squares total around each cuff.
Preparatory Round (sc base) for each cuff:
Join Color A to any corner ch-2 space along the sleeve opening edge.
Work sc into each arch, sc, and corner space around the full sleeve opening as described above for the hem.
(60 sc around each cuff preparatory round)
Scallop Shell Border Round for cuffs: work as hem border.
(15 Scallop Shells, 15 sc per cuff)
Neck Opening Border
Join Color A with sl st to any point along the neck opening.
Work 1 round of sc evenly around the opening, working approximately 2 sc per ch-3 arch and 1 sc per visible dc.
Target approximately 44 sc to 48 sc total around the neck.
Sl st to join. Do not work a scallop border here. The neck opening benefits from a simpler, flatter finish.
If desired, work a second round of sl st or reverse sc (crab stitch) for a neater edge.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Size Customization Tips
To make the poncho wider: Increase from 4 squares wide to 5 squares wide per panel. Each additional square adds 5 inches to the width and requires 10 additional squares total (5 per panel).
To make the poncho longer: Increase from 5 squares tall to 6 squares tall per panel. Each additional row adds 5 inches to the length and requires 8 additional squares total.
To adjust sleeve length: The sleeve opening length is determined by how many squares are left unseamed at the side. Seaming more squares creates a shorter sleeve drop. Seaming fewer creates a longer, more cape-like sleeve.
To adjust neck opening width: Leaving 1 square open at the center of each shoulder seam (instead of 2) creates a smaller 5 inch neck opening. Leaving 3 squares open creates a wider 15 inch opening.
Final Blocking and Care
After all borders are complete, weave in any remaining ends securely, working in opposite directions for at least 1 inch to prevent unraveling.
Wet block the finished garment by submerging in cool water. Gently press out excess water without wringing. Lay flat on blocking mats, shaping to the finished dimensions. Pin corners and borders into position. Allow to dry completely, which may take 24 to 48 hours.
For acrylic yarn, steam blocking works beautifully. Hold a steam iron 1 to 2 inches above the surface without touching. Do not press the iron directly onto acrylic.
Pin your scallop borders open and fan them into shape during blocking to showcase those gorgeous shells.
Care Instructions
Machine washable acrylic: Wash on a gentle cycle in cool or lukewarm water. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry on high heat.
Superwash or natural fiber: Hand wash in cool water with gentle wool wash. Do not wring or twist. Press gently in a towel, then lay flat to dry. Store folded, not hung, to prevent stretching.
Thank you so much for choosing this Ocean Breeze Coastal Square Poncho crochet pattern. I genuinely hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. When you finish yours, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share in my Facebook group. Your creations always make my day.
If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and pin it to your crochet board on Pinterest so you can find it when you’re ready to cast on. And if you make one, please drop a comment below. I read every single one, and hearing about your projects brings me so much joy.
