I don’t know about you, but I have a soft spot for table runners that actually make a statement. Not just a plain strip of fabric that blends into the background, but something that makes people pause and say, "Wait, you made that?"
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This Sage Heart Lace Table Runner is exactly that kind of project. Four gorgeous filet hearts in a soft sage green, each wrapped in delicate cream lace and scalloped edges, all joined together into one stunning centerpiece for your table.
The best part? It looks incredibly intricate, but the construction is completely approachable. If you can work double crochet and follow a simple increase pattern, you can absolutely make this.
About This Pattern
This intermediate level pattern creates four individually crocheted filet hearts that are surrounded by chain lace and finished with scalloped edges. The hearts are then joined with a modest overlap to create a runner that measures approximately 110 to 120 cm long.
Each bordered heart measures about 30 to 35 cm wide and 31 to 34 cm tall. The heart body uses shaped rows for reproducible heart outlines, making it easy to create four matching motifs.
The two color design features sage green centers with cream lace borders and a fine sage green outline on the scallops. This color combination gives the runner a fresh, modern farmhouse feel while still honoring traditional lace crochet techniques.
Materials You Will Need
Yarn: Mercerized cotton sport weight yarn in two colors. You will need approximately 700 meters of sage green (Color A) for the heart centers and approximately 500 meters of cream (Color B) for the lace borders. I recommend adding 15% extra to both amounts just to be safe.
Hook: 3 mm crochet hook, or whatever size you need to meet gauge.
Notions: Tapestry needle for weaving ends and sewing joins, 8 stitch markers, ruler, and blocking pins.
Yarn Tips: Use cotton with distinct stitch definition for the best results. The crisp stitches of mercerized cotton really make the lace pattern pop. Also, choose colorfast yarn to prevent the darker sage center from bleeding into the pale border during washing.
Gauge
Before you commit to making all four hearts, please check your gauge. This step will save you so much frustration later.
Target gauge before edging: 20 double crochet (dc) stitches x 11 rows = 10 cm
The heart body maximum width is 49 dc positions, which should measure about 24.5 cm. If your gauge is off, adjust your hook size accordingly. A larger hook will make a bigger heart, and a smaller hook will make a smaller one.
Abbreviations and US Terminology
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Here is everything you need to know:
ch = chain: Wrap yarn over hook and pull through the loop on your hook. This creates one chain stitch.
sl st = slip stitch: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion.
sc = single crochet: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.
hdc = half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
dc = double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops.
st/sts = stitch/stitches
sp = space
RS/WS = right side/wrong side
rep = repeat
Increase = 2 stitches worked in one stitch
sc2tog = single crochet two together: Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, insert hook in following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
dc2tog = double crochet two together: Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain), yarn over, insert hook in following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Important: Turning chains do NOT count as a stitch unless a step explicitly says they do.
Heart Body Instructions (Make Four)
You will work from the lower point of the heart up toward the cleft. Chain 2 (ch 2) and turn before each new row. Remember, the ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch.
Work your dc into stitches, and work 1 dc into each ch-1 space where a solid row is specified. The position count includes both dc and ch-1 positions.
Row 1 (Color A)
Ch 4, work 3 dc in fourth ch from hook. The unused chains are foundation only, not a fourth stitch.
Stitch count: 3 dc. Turn.
Row 2
Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, dc in middle st, 2 dc in last st.
Stitch count: 5. Turn.
Rows 3 through 24 (Shaping Rows)
Each row increases by 2 stitches: work 2 dc in first st, work across the middle according to the lace rule below, then 2 dc in last st.
Row n has 2n+1 positions. Use these checkpoints to make sure you are on track:
The Lace Rule
On rows divisible by 3 (that is rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24), after the first increase work (ch 1, skip next position, dc in next position) as many times as possible before the last 2 old positions. Then ch 1, skip the penultimate position, and work 2 dc in last position.
All intervening rows (the ones NOT divisible by 3) are solid dc across.
Example for Row 3: 2 dc in first st, ch 1, skip next, dc in next, ch 1, skip next, 2 dc in last st = 7 positions total.
Rows 25 through 28
Work even over 49 positions with no increases.
Rows 25, 26, and 28: Dc in every position. (49 stitches)
Row 27: Dc in first, then work (ch 1, skip 1, dc in next) 24 times. This gives you 25 dc + 24 ch-1 spaces = 49 positions total.
Do not increase on these rows. Fasten off at the end of Row 28.
Shaping the Two Lobes
Now you will create the classic heart shape by working the two rounded lobes at the top.
Mark the Split
With RS facing, count across Row 28. Mark position 25 for the central cleft. You will leave this position unworked. The left lobe uses positions 1 through 24. The right lobe uses positions 26 through 49.
Work each lobe separately. Remember, ch 2 never counts as a stitch.
Lobe Row 1
Join Color A at outside edge for first lobe and work dc in 24 positions. For second lobe, join at the cleft side and work 24 positions, so the same row instructions mirror naturally.
Stitch count: 24. Turn.
Lobe Row 2
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 20 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 22. Turn.
Lobe Row 3
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 18 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 20. Turn.
Lobe Row 4
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 16 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 18. Turn.
Lobe Row 5
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 14 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 16. Turn.
Lobe Row 6
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 12 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 14. Turn.
Lobe Row 7
Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 10 sts, dc2tog.
Stitch count: 12. Fasten off.
Work the second lobe exactly the same way. You should now have a symmetric heart with a 7 row cleft and two softly sloping tops.
Smooth the Body Edge (Color A)
Join Color A at the lower point and sc evenly around the entire body. Start with about 2 sc per dc row end, 1 sc per top stitch, and 3 sc at the bottom point. Work sc2tog across the deepest part of the cleft to prevent a gap from forming.
If your edging starts to ruffle, reduce to 1 sc in selected row ends. Mark the point and cleft with stitch markers. Join and fasten off.
This is an eased edging, not a fixed count round. The goal is a flat, smooth edge around your heart.
Open Lace and Scallops
Now for the pretty part! You will add the cream lace border and scalloped edge.
Round 1: Color B Outline
Join Color B at the point. Sc in each edging st around. Work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the middle point stitch. At the cleft, work sc2tog over the 2 central stitches.
Join with a sl st. Lay your heart flat and record your edging count for the remaining hearts. A flat heart is more important than forcing a specific perimeter count.
Round 2: Mesh
Sl st into point space. Ch 1, work (sc, ch 5, sc) in point.
Repeat: ch 5, skip 2 sts, sc in next st all the way around.
At the cleft, use ch 3 in place of ch 5 to draw it inward. Adjust the final skip to 1 or 3 stitches if needed to make everything work out evenly. Join to first sc. Mark the point loop.
Round 3: Mesh
Sl st into first ch-5 loop. Ch 1, sc into loop.
Repeat: ch 5, sc in next loop around.
At the point, work (sc, ch 5, sc) in the marked point loop to add one loop. At the cleft, use ch 3 again. End with ch 5 and join to first sc.
Lay flat before continuing to make sure everything looks good.
Round 4: Fans
Sl st into first loop. Work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) in each loop around.
In the cleft loop, use (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) instead to avoid crowding.
Join and fasten off. Each normal fan has 9 stitches, and the cleft fan has 5 stitches.
Round 5: Fine Color A Edge
Join Color A anywhere. Sl st loosely in each fan stitch. Work ch 1 between neighboring fans. Join invisibly, fasten off, and weave in your ends.
Tip: If the outer edge contracts or pulls in, use a larger hook for this round.
Color Detail
Keep all four centers in sage green (Color A) and all four lace surrounds in cream (Color B), with the same fine sage green scallop outline. Consistent yarn thickness is essential for matching motif sizes.
Blocking Each Heart
Blocking makes all the difference with lace projects. Do not skip this step!
Soak each heart briefly as directed by your yarn label. Press gently in towels to remove excess water. Pin each piece to identical dimensions on your blocking board or mat.
Shape the two lobes evenly and gently open each lace loop so they show off beautifully. Do not stretch one heart to compensate for a different gauge. Let them dry fully before joining.
Arranging and Joining the Four Hearts
Lay all four hearts facing the same direction. Place the point of heart 2 over the cleft of heart 1, overlapping about 3 to 5 cm. Repeat for hearts 3 and 4.
Choose an overlap that hides the join while keeping both lobes visible. The runner length equals 4 times the heart height minus 3 times the overlap.
Sewing the Joins
Using matching thread or split cotton yarn, make small whipstitches only where the two lace borders touch. Secure an area about 6 to 8 cm wide at each overlap. Do not sew a hard straight seam through the centers.
Keep joins flat with no dangling loops underneath. Lift gently to confirm all sections remain connected.
Care Instructions
Hand wash in cool water if the yarn label allows. Avoid wringing. Lay flat and reshape all scallops while drying.
Place a protective layer beneath hot serving dishes to protect your beautiful work.
Sample Review Checklist
Before you call this project done, confirm the following:
If your runner curls, the border needs more ease. If it waves, you have too many edge stitches. Record your finished dimensions and actual yarn consumption from your sample.
Final Thoughts on the Sage Heart Lace Table Runner Crochet Pattern
This Sage Heart Lace Table Runner is the kind of project that feels like a real accomplishment when you are done. The combination of structured filet hearts with delicate lace edging creates something truly special, and the sage and cream color palette works beautifully in so many homes.
Whether you are making this for your own dining table, as a wedding gift, or for a special holiday celebration, it is sure to become a treasured piece. The four heart design also makes it perfect for Valentine’s Day, anniversaries, or just because you want something beautiful on your table.
Thank you so much for choosing this pattern! I really hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it.
If you make this runner, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. There is nothing better than seeing your creations come to life.
If you want to save this Sage Heart Lace Table Runner pattern for later, go ahead and pin it to your favorite Pinterest board. And if you do make it, please drop a comment below and let me know how it turned out. I always love hearing from you!
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