This is one of those patterns that looks WAY more complicated than it actually is, and I am HERE for it! If you have been wanting to make a show-stopping toddler dress with gorgeous sunflower appliques, flutter sleeves, and a dreamy lace hem, this is your sign to grab your hook and get started.
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I know garment construction can feel intimidating. But trust me when I say this dress breaks down into totally manageable pieces. The bodice is just two flat panels. The skirt works in the round. The sleeves are simple ruffles. And those stunning sunflowers? They are worked separately and sewn on at the end.
The finished dress fits approximately ages 2 to 3 years with a 56 cm (22 inch) finished chest and measures about 46 to 49 cm from shoulder to hem. It is occasion clothing at its finest, perfect for birthday parties, family photos, or any special celebration where your little one deserves to shine.
Materials You Will Need
Before you start, gather everything so you can work uninterrupted. Here is what the pattern calls for:
Yarn: Sport or fine weight cotton, approximately 125 meters per 50 grams. You will need roughly:
Total yarn needed is approximately 1,050 meters before small contrasts. Combine allowances when colors repeat.
Hooks:
Adjust your garment hook size to achieve gauge.
Notions:
Gauge
Getting gauge right is essential for this dress to fit properly.
Blocked gauge: 20 double crochet (dc) stitches and 12 rows equals 10 x 10 cm.
To make your gauge swatch, chain (ch) 32. Work a dc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each remaining chain. You will have 30 dc. Work 18 rows total. Wash and dry the swatch as you plan to care for the finished garment, then measure the central 20 dc and 12 rows.
Change your hook size and re-swatch until both dimensions match. This step is not optional for garments!
Abbreviations and Terminology
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout. Here are all the abbreviations you will encounter:
Important counting rule: Turning ch 1 or ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch anywhere in this pattern. Join rounds to the first actual stitch. Mark that stitch and count every shaping row.
Skill Level
This pattern is rated intermediate to advanced. You should be comfortable with garment assembly, lace edging, small shaped motifs, and detailed applique work.
The skirt is worked downward from a two-panel bodice, and the back has a center opening with snap closures. If you have made baby clothes or worked lace borders before, you are ready for this project.
Front Bodice
The front bodice is worked flat in rows.
Rows 1 to 14:
With terracotta and 3.5 mm hook, ch 58.
Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook and each remaining ch. (56 dc) Turn.
Rows 2 to 14: ch 2, dc in every st. (56 dc) Turn after each row. Do not add a stitch into the turning chain.
Armhole Row 15:
Sl st in the first 4 stitches. Ch 2, dc in each of the next 48 stitches. Leave the final 4 stitches unworked. Turn. (48 dc)
The 4 unworked stitches on each side form a 2 cm underarm ledge.
Rows 16 to 20:
Ch 2, dc in all 48 stitches. Turn. (48 dc)
At gauge, the full panel is now about 16.7 cm tall. Place removable markers around the outermost 10 stitches at each edge. The central 28 stitches form the neckline opening.
First Shoulder, Rows 21 to 26:
Ch 2, dc in the first 10 stitches. Leave the remaining 38 stitches unworked and turn. (10 dc)
Work 5 further rows of 10 dc, turning each row. Fasten off with a sewing tail.
Second Shoulder, Rows 21 to 26:
With the same face of the panel toward you, attach yarn at the opposite outer edge of Row 20. Work toward the center: ch 2 and dc across only the outermost 10 stitches. Turn.
Work 5 further rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
Both straps must have 6 rows above Row 20.
Checkpoint: Panel width below the armholes should be 28 cm. Width above the underarm ledges should be 24 cm. Shoulder width should be 5 cm each. Neckline gap should be 14 cm. Overall height should be approximately 21.7 cm.
Back Bodice and Seams
Rows 1 to 14:
Using terracotta, make a second panel exactly as Front Rows 1 to 14: 56 dc each row. Mark the center between stitches 28 and 29.
Left Half, Rows 15 to 23:
Row 15: sl st in first 4 sts, ch 2, dc in next 24 sts, stopping at the center marker. Leave the other half unworked. Turn. (24 dc)
Rows 16 to 23: ch 2, dc in each st. Turn. (24 dc) Fasten off.
Right Half, Rows 15 to 23:
Return to the unworked half of Row 14. Attach at the center marker and work toward the outer edge: ch 2, dc in the next 24 sts, leaving the final 4 sts unworked. Turn. (24 dc)
Work Rows 16 to 23 as for the left half. Fasten off. The center edges remain separate.
Back Shoulders, Rows 24 to 26:
On each half, attach yarn at the outer armhole edge of Row 23 and dc across the outermost 10 sts. Leave the inner 14 sts unworked. Turn.
Work 2 more rows of 10 dc. Fasten off.
The two 14 st inner gaps make a 28 st back neckline.
Joining the Bodice:
Block the panels to the target measurements. With right sides together, join each pair of 10 st shoulder tops using mattress stitch (align matching edges and pick up one small strand from each edge alternately with a tapestry needle, tightening gradually so the join lies flat).
Join side edges from the foundation edge through Row 14 only, matching rows carefully. Keep all upper edges open for armholes. Turn right side out.
The lower edge now has 56 foundation stitches on each panel, 112 total. The back slit begins above Row 14.
Skirt Construction
The skirt is worked in joined rounds from the bodice lower edge.
Round 1:
With cream, join at a side seam of the 112 st lower bodice edge. Ch 2, repeat [dc in next foundation st, 2 dc in next foundation st] 56 times. Join. (168 dc)
Rounds 2 to 22:
Ch 2, dc in each st. Join and turn. (168 dc)
For the contrast stripe, use the bodice color (terracotta) for Rounds 18 and 19, then return to cream. Carry no long floats on the inside.
Round 23:
Ch 2, repeat [dc in next 6 sts, 2 dc in next st] 24 times. Join. (192 dc)
Round 24:
Ch 2, repeat [dc in next 7 sts, 2 dc in next st] 24 times. Join. (216 dc)
Round 25:
Ch 2, repeat [dc in next 8 sts, 2 dc in next st] 24 times. Join. (240 dc)
Hem Foundation:
Ch 1, sc in every st. Join. (240 sc)
Change to mustard yellow for the fan border. The body of the skirt should measure approximately 21 cm.
Flutter Sleeves
These adorable sleeves add the perfect finishing touch.
Sleeve Foundation:
Use mustard yellow and 3.5 mm hook. On one armhole, identify the shoulder seam. Measure 6 cm down the front edge and 6 cm down the back edge. Mark both points.
Join at the front marker, work 30 sc evenly across the 12 cm upper arc to the back marker, crossing the shoulder seam. Do not work around the lower underarm.
Flutter Rows:
Turn.
Row 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each sc. (60 dc) Turn.
Row 3: ch 2, repeat [dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] 30 times. (90 dc) Turn.
Row 4: ch 1, sc in every st. (90 sc) Fasten off.
Repeat on the other armhole, matching the marked arc and counts. This yields one softly ruffled cap on each side.
Lace Hem Border
Hem Round 1:
With mustard yellow, join in any of the 240 hem foundation sc. Ch 1 and sc in that same stitch.
Repeat 24 times: skip next 4 foundation sts, 11 tr in next st, skip next 4 foundation sts, sc in next st.
The last sc location is the starting sc. Instead of making a second sc there, join to the first sc.
Result: 24 fans of 11 tr and 24 sc anchors.
Hem Round 2:
Ch 1, sc in same anchor. For each fan: ch 1, work dc in each of its 11 tr with ch 1 between adjacent dc, ch 1, sc in the next anchor.
On the last fan, join to the first sc instead of making a duplicate anchor. Each fan has 11 dc and 12 ch 1 spaces.
Hem Round 3:
Ch 1, sc in each sc anchor, each dc, and each ch 1 space around. Join and fasten off. (576 sc)
Keep tension relaxed. Wet block individual fans into smooth rounded scallops without pulling the skirt waist wider.
Sunflower Appliques
These cheerful sunflowers make the dress truly special.
Center:
With dark cocoa brown and 3 mm hook, make a magic ring (an adjustable loop around two fingers). Ch 1 and 6 sc into the ring. Tighten and join to first sc.
Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in every st. Join. (12 sc)
Round 3: ch 1, 2 sc in every st. Join. (24 sc)
Fasten off the center color. Join mustard yellow in any st.
Twelve Petals:
Repeat 12 times: ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, sl st in each of the next 2 center stitches.
This consumes all 24 center stitches. Join and fasten off.
Block petals into a circle, approximately 7 to 9 cm across.
Large Waist Flower:
Use the same center. For each petal ch 9, work sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc along the 8 chains, then sl st in the next 2 center stitches. Repeat 12 times. Aim for 9 to 11 cm. Sew every petal base securely.
Leaves and Small Flowers
Pointed Leaf:
With olive green and 3 mm hook, ch 9.
Working along one side: sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch.
Continue along the opposite side of the same chain: hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in last.
Fasten off with a sewing tail. Embroider a straight vein down the middle if desired.
Tiny Filler Flower:
With a contrast color and 3 mm hook, make a magic ring. Repeat 5 times into the ring: ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st.
Tighten, fasten off and sew the center securely. Embroider a contrasting center using three short straight stitches.
Quantities:
Make 4 large lower front flowers and 8 leaves, plus 1 large waist flower and 2 tiny flowers for the shoulder area.
Applique Placement:
Lay the blocked dress flat. Mark the front center and both side seams. Arrange motifs 3 to 5 cm above the start of the lace hem, distributing them evenly between the side seams. Overlap only the leaf bases, not their tips. Baste first, then sew around all edges and through every layered center with small matching stitches.
Waist Sash and Decorative Finish
Ribbon Sash Option:
Use soft satin ribbon 2 cm wide. Cut one 60 cm piece for the waist, two 14 cm pieces for decorative tails, and one 26 cm piece for a small bow. Turn raw ends under 1 cm twice and stitch them flat.
Fit the waist piece around the 56 cm waist, overlap its finished ends at center back, and sew both long edges to the dress without constricting the fabric. Form a flat bow from the 26 cm piece, wrap its middle with a short matching crochet band, and sew at the front left waist. Sew the large flower at the front right waist.
Yarn Only Alternative:
With terracotta, ch 113 and sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. (112 sc) Work 3 more sc rows. Fasten off. Block to the actual waist measurement and sew flat.
Neckline, Closures, and Finishing
Neckline Edge:
Using terracotta, join at the back neck. Work 1 sc per horizontal stitch and approximately 2 sc per dc row end around the neck, excluding the vertical center back slit. At inner corners, work sc2tog across the corner if needed to lie flat. Join. Work one further round of sc. Join and fasten off.
Back Bands:
Along each vertical back slit edge, work 2 sc into each dc row end for Rows 15 to 23. (18 sc) Turn. Work 2 more rows of 18 sc. Fasten off.
Lightly block the two bands so they overlap by about 1 cm without pulling the back panel.
Closures:
Sew three snaps through small soft backing patches at approximately 1 cm below the top of the slit, its midpoint, and 1 cm above its bottom. Align paired halves before stitching. Cover exposed backing edges with soft fabric.
Final Blocking:
Weave ends through several stitches, reverse direction, and secure. Wash according to the yarn label. Gently press out water in a towel (do not wring). Pin the bodice to 56 cm chest circumference, ease the skirt outward without stretching the waist, and shape the lace scallops, sleeve ruffles, and appliques. Dry completely on a flat surface.
Care Instructions
Hand wash cool if compatible with all materials. Support the wet garment and dry flat. Do not hang while wet. Check snaps, seams, ribbon, and applique attachments before each wear. Repair any loose parts before use.
This dress is occasion clothing and should be worn with a sewn cotton slip or suitable underdress where the fabric is open. It is not sleepwear.
Wearable Safety Notes
The illustration may show decorative beads or ribbon. For a child worn sample, substitute embroidered centers for any beads, stitch sash and bow tails flat, and secure every applique edge thoroughly. Avoid detachable pins, clips, beads, or long loose ribbon ties.
I hope you love making this Terracotta Sunflower Dress as much as I loved putting this pattern together! It really is such a rewarding project, and the finished dress is absolutely precious.
If you make this dress, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in our Facebook group. And please save this pattern to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. Drop a comment below and let me know what colors you are planning to use!
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