Cream Boho Tassel Purse Free Crochet Pattern

Let me guess. You have been eyeing those gorgeous boho bucket bags all over Pinterest, but you are convinced they are way too complicated to make yourself. Too many techniques. Too many hardware pieces. Too much room for error.

I am here to tell you that is simply not true. This Cream Boho Tassel Purse looks like it belongs in a boutique window, but it breaks down into straightforward sections that build on each other naturally. If you can single crochet in the round and you are willing to try a couple of new stitches, you can absolutely make this bag.

The basketweave base? Just front post and back post double crochets in a simple pattern. The shell stitch body? A repeating rhythm that clicks into place after the first round. The wooden rings, beads, and tassel? Those are the fun finishing touches that make everyone ask where you bought it. Let me walk you through every step.

About This Pattern

This hand crocheted shell and basketweave bucket bag combines two of my favorite textures. The lower third features a dense woven basketweave that gives the bag structure and helps it stand upright on its own. The upper body opens up into an airy shell stitch pattern that creates those beautiful diamond shaped fans you see in the photos.

The bag measures approximately 10 inches wide by 9 inches tall when finished. Everything is worked bottom up in continuous spiral rounds, which means no seams to sew along the body. The wooden rings, beaded dangles, toggle closure, and generous tassel give it that relaxed, sun bleached boho mood that works perfectly for summer markets, beach days, or everyday errands.

Skill Level: Intermediate

This pattern assumes you are comfortable with basic crochet stitches and working in the round. The post stitches and shell stitch pattern are explained fully, so even if they are new to you, you can learn as you go.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn

Yarn Weight: Worsted weight or Aran weight (#4) cotton

Yardage: Approximately 410 to 460 yards (375 to 420 meters)

Color: Natural cream or oat

Yarn Suggestions:

Lily Sugar’n Cream in natural or off white, about 4 balls

Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran in Champagne White or Vanilla Cream, 3 to 4 balls

Hobbii Rainbow Cotton 8/8 in Ecru for smooth, rounded stitch definition

Hook

5.0 mm hook (US H/8)

Notions and Hardware

4 wooden rings, approximately 40 to 45 mm (2 per handle, so 2 per side)

14 to 18 round wooden beads, 16 to 20 mm, for the side dangles

1 wooden toggle or short bamboo stick, approximately 45 mm, for the front closure

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Stitch marker

Small piece of cardboard for the tassel (approximately 4 inches)

Optional: cotton fabric for a simple drop in liner

Gauge

14 single crochet (sc) stitches and 15 rounds equals 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet with a 5.0 mm hook.

A firm, dense tension keeps the bag sturdy and helps it hold its shape. Take time to check your gauge before starting. If your gauge is off, your bag will end up a different size than intended.

Abbreviations and Stitch Definitions

This pattern uses US crochet terminology. If you typically work from UK patterns, I have included the UK equivalents below.

ch = chain

st(s) = stitch(es)

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet (UK: double crochet). Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. That is one single crochet.

hdc = half double crochet (UK: half treble). Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops.

dc = double crochet (UK: treble). Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

fpdc = front post double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, complete as a regular double crochet.

bpdc = back post double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below, complete as a regular double crochet.

inc = increase. Work 2 single crochets in the same stitch.

BLO = back loop only. Insert your hook under only the back loop of the stitch instead of both loops.

rep = repeat

sp = space

Special Stitches

Shell: Work 5 double crochets into the same stitch or space. These should fan open nicely. If your shell looks crowded, your tension may be too tight. Try going up a quarter hook size for the shell section only.

Basketweave: Alternating blocks of front post double crochet and back post double crochet that shift every two rounds to form a woven grid pattern.

Pattern Notes Before You Begin

Please read through these notes before starting. They will save you confusion later.

The body is worked in continuous spiral rounds with no joining unless a round specifically says to join. Mark the first stitch of each round and move the marker up as you go.

Each round ends with its stitch count in parentheses, for example (72 sc). Check your count against this number before moving on.

The base is worked from a magic ring. If you prefer, you can chain 2 and work the first round into the second chain from the hook.

Round 13 is worked in the back loops only. This creates a crisp fold line so the sides stand upright naturally.

The body stays at 72 stitches throughout. This count divides evenly by 6, which is important because both the basketweave section (12 blocks) and the shell body (12 shells) rely on this number.

Part 1: The Base

The base is worked in a flat spiral from the center outward. The finished circle measures about 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) across.

Round 1: Work 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Round 3: Sc in next stitch, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (18 sc)

Round 4: Sc in next 2 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (24 sc)

Round 5: Sc in next 3 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (30 sc)

Round 6: Sc in next 4 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (36 sc)

Round 7: Sc in next 5 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (42 sc)

Round 8: Sc in next 6 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (48 sc)

Round 9: Sc in next 7 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (54 sc)

Round 10: Sc in next 8 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (60 sc)

Round 11: Sc in next 9 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (66 sc)

Round 12: Sc in next 10 stitches, inc in next stitch. Repeat from * around. (72 sc)

Round 13: Working in BLO, sc in each stitch around. (72 sc)

Round 13 sets the fold line. The sides will begin to rise from here.

Troubleshooting Tip: If your base is ruffling, you have too many stitches for your gauge. Rip back a round and skip an increase or two. If it is cupping, add a round of even single crochet.

Part 2: Basketweave Lower Band

This dense woven band forms the sturdy lower third of the bag. Post stitches are worked around the posts of the round below, not into the top of the stitches.

Round 14: Dc in each stitch around. (72 dc)

Round 15: Work 3 fpdc, then 3 bpdc. Repeat from * around 12 times. (72 sts)

Round 16: Repeat Round 15. Work fpdc over fpdc, bpdc over bpdc. (72 sts)

Round 17: Work 3 bpdc, then 3 fpdc. Repeat from * around 12 times. This shifts the blocks. (72 sts)

Round 18: Repeat Round 17. (72 sts)

Round 19: Sc in each stitch around. (72 sc)

The shift in Rounds 17 and 18 staggers the blocks into the brick like weave you see along the base of the bag.

Important Note: Post stitches pull in slightly. Do not add stitches to compensate. The band is meant to be a touch narrower than the shell body above it.

Part 3: Shell Stitch Body

The airy upper body is built from 12 shells per round. Each round places a shell into the single crochet below and a single crochet into the center of the shell below, so the fans stack into soft diamonds.

Round 20 (Set Up Round): Sc in next stitch, skip 2 stitches, 5 dc in next stitch, skip 2 stitches. Repeat from * around. (12 shells and 12 sc)

Round 21: 5 dc in next sc, sc in center (3rd) dc of next shell. Repeat from * around. (12 shells and 12 sc)

Rounds 22 through 27: Repeat Round 21. (12 shells and 12 sc)

That gives you 8 shell rounds total (Rounds 20 through 27), approximately 5 inches (12.5 cm) tall. For a deeper bag, work extra repeats of Round 21 in pairs.

Round 28: Sc evenly around, working 1 sc in each sc and 1 sc in each dc or space to true up the edge. (72 sc)

Part 4: Top Edge and Closure

Round 29: Sc in each stitch around. (72 sc)

Round 30: Hdc in each stitch around. (72 hdc)

Round 31: Sc in each stitch around, sl st in first stitch to join. Fasten off. (72 sc)

These three firm rounds at the top keep the opening from stretching and give a clean lip to anchor the handles.

Toggle Loop Closure

At the center front of your bag, count to the middle stitches of the top edge. Join your yarn, chain 12, and slip stitch back into the same stitch to form a loop. Fasten off and weave in your ends.

On the inside center back, securely sew the wooden toggle or short bamboo stick so the front loop slips over it to close the bag.

Tip: Test the loop length around your toggle before fastening off. It should slip on snugly but release without tugging the fabric. Adjust your chain count if needed.

Part 5: Handles, Rings, and Beads

Wrapped Handles (Make 2)

1. Cut 4 lengths of yarn about 36 inches (90 cm) each and hold them together as a core.

2. Thread the core through two wooden rings, centering the rings about 5 inches (12.5 cm) apart at the ends.

3. Using a separate working strand, tightly wrap (or sc closely over) the core along its full length to form a firm rope handle, securing each ring at the ends.

4. Knot and weave in so the wrap cannot slip.

Joining Handles to the Bag

Position one handle across the front and one across the back. Each ring should sit just below the top edge, about 3 inches (7.5 cm) in from the side folds.

Stitch each wooden ring firmly to the top band with doubled yarn, passing through the ring several times for security.

Beaded Dangles (Make 2)

Cut a 14 inch (35 cm) doubled strand. Fold it through a handle ring, then thread on 7 to 9 wooden beads. Knot above and below the cluster so the beads sit snug. Trim the tails short.

Repeat on the opposite ring.

Part 6: Tassel and Assembly

Make the Tassel

1. Wrap yarn around a 4 inch (10 cm) piece of cardboard about 35 to 40 times.

2. Slide a tie strand under the top and knot tightly. Cut the loops at the bottom.

3. Wrap a separate strand around the bundle about one third inch from the top to form the neck. Thread the tails down into the skirt to hide them.

4. Trim the ends level.

5. Use the top tie to attach the tassel to a front handle ring.

Final Assembly Checklist

Before calling your bag complete, run through this list:

Both handles are stitched on and balanced front to back

Toggle loop closes cleanly over the toggle

Beaded dangles are secure on both rings

Tassel is hung and trimmed even

All ends are woven in

Optional liner is dropped in and tacked at the top (if using)

Blocking Your Bag

Lightly steam or wet block the finished bag over a rolled towel to round out the base and open up the shell fans. This step makes a noticeable difference in how polished your finished bag looks.

Care Instructions

Spot clean with cool water and mild soap. Press out moisture with a towel.

Reshape while damp and lay flat to dry, away from direct heat and sun.

Avoid machine washing once hardware and beads are attached.

Store stuffed lightly with tissue to hold the bucket shape.

Size Customizing Tips

Want to make this bag bigger, smaller, or just different? Here are your options:

Wider bag: Continue the base increases past Round 12 in multiples of 6 (for example, to 78 or 84 stitches) so the shell and basketweave repeats still divide evenly.

Taller bag: Add shell rounds in pairs by repeating Round 21. Add one or two basketweave shift sequences for a deeper base band.

Sturdier bag: Hold two strands together or drop to a 4.5 mm hook for a tighter, more rigid fabric.

Softer drape: Swap to a single strand cotton blend and go up to a 5.5 mm hook.

The Rule of 6: Whatever size you choose, keep the body stitch count a multiple of 6 so both textured sections stay symmetrical all the way around.

You Did It!

Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next crochet project. I truly hope you love making this bag as much as I loved designing it. The combination of the structured basketweave and the delicate shell stitch creates something that looks far more complicated than it actually is, and that is exactly the kind of project I love most.

If you make this Cream Boho Tassel Purse, I would absolutely love to see it. Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group. Seeing your finished projects genuinely makes my day.

If you found this crochet pattern helpful, please save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it easily when you are ready to start. And if you have any questions or want to share how yours turned out, leave a comment below. I read every single one and love hearing from you. Happy crocheting!