Coral Hibiscus Skirt Set Crochet Pattern

This two-piece ensemble brings together everything you want in a statement crochet garment. A fitted lace top pairs with a floor-length skirt, both built from simple mesh panels and finished with dimensional hibiscus flowers and trailing leaves. The construction is straightforward panel work with no complex shaping until the neckline, making it approachable for confident intermediate crocheters ready to tackle a larger project.

The coral pink and cream color palette feels fresh and tropical, while the open mesh keeps the fabric lightweight and breathable. You will love how the appliqué flowers transform basic filet-style panels into something truly special. Each bloom gets sewn on while the pieces are still flat, so there is no awkward maneuvering around a finished garment.

Whether you are planning for a beach vacation, a summer wedding, or simply want a showstopping project that builds your garment-making skills, this set delivers. The skirt features a flattering side slit and elastic waist casing with a decorative drawstring, while the top has ribbed trims at the neck, hem, and cuffs for a polished finish. Let’s walk through everything you need to bring this design to life.

About This Coral Hibiscus Skirt Set Pattern

This pattern creates a coordinated lace top and maxi skirt in one adult size. The finished body circumference measures approximately 108 to 110 cm (42.5 to 43.3 inches), designed for bust and hip measurements of 98 to 102 cm (38.6 to 40.2 inches) with 6 to 12 cm of ease built in. Before you begin, measure your largest relevant circumference to confirm this size works for you.

The skirt length before edging is 86.2 cm (33.9 inches), while the top measures 46.2 cm (18.2 inches). Each sleeve panel is 36.9 cm plus approximately 4 cm for the ribbed cuff. The skill level is experienced intermediate, meaning you should be comfortable with basic stitches, post stitches, seaming, and following a multi-piece construction sequence.

Both pieces use a simple mesh stitch pattern throughout the main body. This creates the signature open grid look you see in the photos. The flowers and leaves are worked separately as appliqués and sewn on before assembly, which makes placement easy to customize.

Materials You Will Need

Main Yarn: DK weight (category 3), smooth plied cotton-acrylic blend, approximately 220 meters per 100 grams. You will need roughly 2100 meters in coral pink, which means buying 10 skeins of 100 grams each. This estimate includes a generous trim allowance.

Contrast Yarn: Same yarn weight in cream (250 meters) and leaf green (100 meters).

Hooks: 4.0 mm hook for the main fabric panels and 3.5 mm hook for ribbed trims and appliqués. Use whatever sizes you need to match the blocked gauge.

Notions: Yarn needle, 12 stitch markers, tape measure, scissors, blocking mats, sewing needle with matching thread, 30 mm soft elastic (0.9 meters for the skirt waist), and 36 small sew-on pearl beads (optional for flower centers).

Lining: A separate matching slip or professionally fitted lining is recommended for opacity. The lining is not covered in these crochet instructions.

Gauge Information

Getting gauge right matters enormously for a fitted garment like this. Your blocked main fabric should measure 18 stitches (or mesh positions) and 13 rows per 10 cm (4 inches) square.

The pattern offers three swatch options depending on which stitch you want to test:

• For cables: chain 44 stitches (4 repeats)
• For mesh: chain 39 positions (20 double crochet plus 19 spaces)
• For other textures: chain 51 stitches plus 3 turning chains

Work at least 22 rows using the stitch instructions, then wash and dry your swatch flat before measuring the central 10 cm. Change your hook size until both dimensions match. Do not force-stretch the swatch to meet gauge.

Here is an important tip for long garments: hang your dry swatch for 24 hours and measure again. A long skirt can grow under its own weight. If your row gauge changes when hanging, use that hanging row gauge to choose a shorter row total before you start. Record your yarn, hook size, and measured gauge on paper for reference.

Abbreviations and Special Stitches

Before diving into the instructions, familiarize yourself with these terms:

ch = chain

st(s) = stitch(es)

sp = space

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet (insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)

tr = treble crochet

RS / WS = right side / wrong side

yo = yarn over

rep = repeat

BLO = back loop only

FPdc = front post double crochet

BPdc = back post double crochet

FPtr = front post treble crochet

pc = popcorn

Post Stitches Explained

Post stitches are worked around the vertical post of a stitch from the previous row instead of through its top loops. For front post stitches (FPdc), insert your hook from front to back to front around the post. For back post stitches (BPdc), insert from back to front to back. Complete the double crochet as normal. Do not also work into that stitch’s top loops.

Other Special Stitches

sc2tog (single crochet two together): Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat in following stitch. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on hook. This decreases two stitches into one.

Shell: Work 5 double crochet stitches into one stitch.

Picot: Chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain. This creates a decorative bump and is not a base stitch.

Understanding Mesh Position

This pattern uses "mesh position" as a counting term. Each double crochet and each chain-1 space counts as one position. So a 99-position row contains 50 double crochet stitches and 49 chain-1 spaces. When working edgings, place one single crochet in each dc and one in each space.

Pattern Notes to Remember

Turn after every flat row. Chain 3 before each dc-based row and chain 1 before each sc row. Turning chains never count as a stitch. Work into the first stitch at the beginning of each row.

Stitch counts appear in brackets at the end of instructions. Brackets within directions enclose one repeat. Fasten off with a 20 cm tail when instructed so you have enough length for weaving in ends.

When joining rounds, slip stitch into the first actual stitch. The joining slip stitch and starting chains never count toward your stitch total.

Keep a row counter handy. This is a large project with many rows, and losing count is frustrating.

Construction Overview

The set is built from six main pieces: two top panels, two skirt panels, and two sleeves. You will add the flower and leaf motifs while the panels are still flat (much easier than sewing onto a finished tube). Then you seam the shoulders, set the sleeves, close the top side seams, seam the skirt with one side slit left open, and finish with the waist casing, trims, and drawstring cord.

Target Measurements Before Seaming

Piece	Target
Body panel width	99 stitches = 55 cm
Each shoulder	33 stitches = 18.3 cm
Neck opening	33 center stitches = 18.3 cm wide
Front neck depth	6.2 cm
Back neck depth	1.5 cm
Armhole	26 row ends = 20 cm on each front/back edge
Sleeve width	77 stitches = 42.8 cm (eased into 40 cm total armhole)
Side slit	39 rows = 30.0 cm

Main Stitch Pattern for Body Panels

With your 4.0 mm hook and coral pink main color, chain 102 for each 99-stitch panel. The first 3 chains provide height only. Begin working in the fourth chain from the hook.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in fourth ch from hook, [ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch] 49 times. Turning chain does not count. [50 dc + 49 ch-1 spaces = 99 positions]

Row 2: Dc in first dc, [ch 1, skip ch-1 space, dc in next dc] 49 times. [99 positions]

Following rows: Repeat Row 2, maintaining straight columns. Count each dc and ch-1 space as one position. [99 positions]

Front Top Panel Instructions

Work the main stitch pattern through Row 52. [99 positions]

Row 53: Work next 33 positions in established pattern for the first shoulder. Leave remaining 66 positions unworked. Turn. [33]

Rows 54-60: Continue over these 33 positions, preserving pattern columns. Fasten off. [33 each row]

Return to Row 52. Leave the center 33 positions unworked for the neck opening. Join main yarn at the outer edge of the other 33 positions with the correct side facing for Row 53. Work its 8 rows to match the first shoulder. [33 each row]

Back Top Panel Instructions

Work a second 99-position panel through Row 58. [99]

Rows 59-60: Work each outer group of 33 positions separately for 2 rows, leaving the center 33 positions unworked. Fasten off. [33 per shoulder each row]

Skirt Panels (Make Two)

Chain 102. Work the main mesh pattern for Rows 1 through 112 without any neck shaping. Fasten off. [99 positions per row; 50 dc + 49 spaces]

Mark the lower edge as the hem and the upper edge as the waist. Do not taper these panels. The soft waist casing will gather the excess evenly when assembled.

Sleeves (Make Two)

With coral pink main yarn and 4.0 mm hook, chain 80. Work the sleeve pattern through Row 48, then fasten off. The starting edge becomes the cuff side, and the last row becomes the shoulder side. [77 positions per row]

Row 1 (RS): Dc in fourth ch from hook, [ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch] 38 times. Turning chain does not count. [39 dc + 38 ch-1 spaces = 77 positions]

Row 2: Dc in first dc, [ch 1, skip ch-1 space, dc in next dc] 38 times. [77 positions]

Following rows: Repeat Row 2, maintaining straight columns. [77 positions]

Hibiscus Flower Appliqués (Make 36)

Switch to your 3.5 mm hook for all appliqués.

Center: With coral pink main color, ch 4, join to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, join. [6 sc]

Round 2: Switch to cream yarn, [ch 3, sl st in next sc] 6 times. [6 loops]

Round 3: [Sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc] in each loop, join. [36 sts; 6 petals]

Optional pearl center: Sew one bead through the center after blocking for extra dimension.

Target flower diameter is 4.5 to 5 cm. Small differences between flowers are acceptable. Never stretch a motif to force it to fit a particular spot.

Leaf Appliqués (Make 36)

With 3.5 mm hook and leaf green yarn, chain 8.

Working in one side of the chain: sc in second ch, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in next, 3 sc in final ch.

Rotate and work into the unused chain loops on the other side: sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in last. Join to first sc. [15 sts]

Leave a 25 cm sewing tail. Each leaf should measure approximately 4 x 2 cm after blocking.

Placing the Appliqués

Before seaming, lay out your panels flat and position the flowers and leaves:

• 16 flowers placed diagonally down the front skirt panel, running from the right waist toward the left lower edge
• 12 flowers distributed around the hem
• 4 flowers on each cuff

Attach one leaf beside each flower. Distribute everything in a single layer with small gaps between motifs. Keep seam allowances and the slit opening clear of decorations.

Pin everything first, then sew at the centers and petal bases using fine matching yarn. Take your time with placement because this is what gives the set its signature look.

Belt or Drawstring

With coral pink main yarn and 3.5 mm hook, chain 281. Slip stitch in second chain and every chain across. [280 sl sts]

The target cord length is 155 to 170 cm. Adjust your initial chain length to reach that measurement before working the slip stitches. Knot both ends securely to prevent unraveling.

Assembly Instructions

Gather your main-color yarn, tapestry needle, and 4.0 mm hook for any slip-stitch joining. Use mattress stitch unless otherwise noted. Match row ends carefully and keep seams flexible.

Join 1 (Shoulders): With right sides facing outward, mattress-seam each front shoulder to its matching back shoulder, one stitch to one stitch. [33 paired stitches per shoulder; 2 seams total]

Join 2 (Sleeves): Mark 26 row ends down from each shoulder on both front and back panels. Center each sleeve’s last row at the shoulder seam. Ease half the sleeve width to the front and half to the back. Pin four equal sections and sew. [52 body row ends per sleeve; 2 sleeve seams]

Join 3 (Top Sides and Underarms): Close the top sides from hem to armhole marker and the sleeve underarms from cuff edge to armhole. [34 row pairs per top side; 48 row pairs per sleeve]

Join 4 (Skirt): Seam one skirt side from hem to waist completely. On the other side, leave the bottom 39 row pairs unsewn for the side slit, then seam the remainder to the waist. [112 row pairs on the closed side; 73 joined row pairs on the slit side]

Assembly Checkpoint

Verify that shoulder widths match and sleeves are centered without twisting. The assembled chest should measure approximately 108 to 110 cm around after seam take-up. Try the top over your intended slip before adding edging. Both sleeve seams must match in length.

Edgings and Details

Switch to your 3.5 mm hook and main-color yarn for all edgings. Mark the first stitch of every round.

Neckline Edging

Round 1: Attach yarn at back neck. Sc into 33 center back positions, 2 sc in each of 2 back neck row ends, 2 sc in each of 8 front neck row ends, 33 center front positions, then mirror both side edges. Join. [106 sc]

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in each sc, join. [106 dc]

Round 3: Ch 3, [FPdc, BPdc] 53 times, join. [106 sts]

Round 4: Repeat Round 3. Fasten off. [106 sts]

Cuff Edging (Each Sleeve)

Round 1: Sc into first 7 foundation stitches, then sc2tog 35 times around the remaining foundation edge. Join. [42 sc]

Round 2: Dc in each sc. Join. [42 dc]

Rounds 3-6: [FPdc, BPdc] 21 times, join. [42 sts each round]

Fasten off after Round 6.

Slit Edging (Each Edge)

Row 1: Sc 2 into each exposed row end. Fasten off at slit top. [78 sc on each of 2 edges]

Skirt Hem Edging

Row/Round 1: With RS facing, sc once into each foundation position. Treat both panels as one open row if there is a slit, otherwise join as a round. [198 sc]

Row/Round 2: [Sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts] 33 times. At an open hem, fasten off after the final skipped stitches. For a closed hem, join to first sc. [33 shells + 33 sc = 198 worked sts]

Top Hem Edging

Round 1: Sc once into each of 198 foundation positions, join. [198 sc]

Round 2: Dc around, join. [198 dc]

Round 3: [FPdc, BPdc] 99 times, join. [198 sts]

Round 4: Repeat Round 3, join and fasten off. [198 sts]

Edging Checkpoint

The neckline should lie flat and stretch comfortably over your head. Cuffs should measure approximately 21 to 23 cm around without forcing. The hem should have 33 scallops. If any edging flares or pulls, adjust your hook size and rework while keeping the listed counts. Secure all motifs and beads through multiple fabric strands without visible puckering.

Skirt Waist Casing and Cord

Round 1: At the top of the joined skirt, sc in each dc and ch-1 space, join. [198 sc]

Rounds 2-4: Hdc in every stitch, join. [198 hdc each round]

Round 5: Hdc in next 94 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, hdc in last 94 sts, join. Place the holes at front center by shifting your round start if needed. [194 hdc + 4 chain positions = 198]

Rounds 6-10: Hdc in every stitch and chain position, join. [198 hdc each round]

Fold the casing inward at Round 5. Whipstitch Round 10 to the base of Round 1, leaving a 5 cm gap open.

Cut your elastic to your comfortable waist measurement plus 2 cm. Overlap the ends by 2 cm and sew a secure box stitch. For an 80 cm waist, use 82 cm of elastic before the overlap.

Thread the elastic through the casing, join the ends, then close the gap. Thread your crochet cord through the two front openings above the elastic.

Important: Check that your elastic extends comfortably over your hips before closing the casing completely.

Finishing Your Coral Hibiscus Set

Pass 1: Weave each tail through at least 5 cm of adjacent stitch backs, reverse direction and repeat, then trim after checking that everything is secure.

Pass 2: Damp-block all pieces flat to the schematic dimensions. Pin scallops evenly and support all garment weight during blocking. Avoid heat on acrylic blends and avoid pressing textured stitches flat.

Pass 3: Let everything dry completely, fit over your intended lining, and inspect each seam, cord end, and bead. Fold for storage rather than hanging long term.

Final Checkpoint

Your finished hem should be even, with the slit length measuring 30.0 cm before edging. Record your actual finished measurements and yarn used in the maker notes section at the end of the pattern. Do a wear-test for walking, sitting, and raising your arms before wearing this set out.

Care Instructions

Follow the care instructions on your yarn label. Hand wash in cool water with mild detergent if compatible with your chosen yarn. Support the garment while wet, roll in a towel to remove excess water, and dry flat. Remove any detachable embellishments before washing.

Inspect sewn beads before wearing. Long cords, tassels, and open lace can snag, so keep clear of machinery and flame. If the hem drags on the ground, shorten it for safety.

Fit Tips Before You Begin

Block your pieces to measurements and baste seams before permanent joining. Check that the neckline passes over your head comfortably, the hips have adequate walking ease, and the hem clears the floor in your intended footwear.

The belt shapes what is otherwise a straight silhouette. If you need to adjust length, change only in complete texture repeats below the armhole. Document any altered row numbers before seaming so you can replicate the changes on matching pieces.

This coral hibiscus skirt set is one of those projects that looks incredibly impressive but builds on techniques you likely already know. The mesh panels work up rhythmically once you establish the pattern, and the dimensional flowers give you that satisfying appliqué work without overwhelming the project. Take your time with the blocking and assembly stages because that is where the professional finish really comes through.

Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next crochet adventure. If you make this set, I would absolutely love to see it! Share your photos on Instagram or in our Facebook group so we can celebrate your beautiful work together.

If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you decide to make it. I would love to hear how it turns out for you!

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